Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Santiago to Pucon

Before I begin, let me note - South America is not shy about smoking, PDA, or Vienetta ice cream logs.

Yesterday we had breakfast at our hostel and headed our to Plaza de Armas to look for some alpaca handicrafts (scarves, hats, sweaters) for our upcoming journey into the cold salt flats.  First we stopped at the bus station to purchase tickets to Pucon for that evening.  It's a 10 hour overnight bus ride.  I was dreading it considering I slept very poorly on our overnight flight.

With the help of a guy behind us who spoke English, we purchased two premium (meaning seats that fully reclined) tickets.  The lady was telling us something about talking the subway, walking, then "the bus will come to you."  Hmm...ok.

Shortly after arriving, Ryan's left leg was giving him so much trouble that we had to stop walking and let him rest a little.  I accidentally left the Aleve in the hostel, so we went to a farmacia.  I wrote "Naproxen o Naprosyn o Aleve" on a slip of paper and the pharmacist was able to give us a box.  Ryan took it, we had lunch at a vegetarian restaurant, and he was feeling better.  We found a little shop that had what we were looking for.  Ryan got a scarf that he'd spotted several locals wearing, and I got a neat hat.

After we bought our goods, we headed back to a tiny store I spotted the day of our walking tour.  It was an "Ortopedias" (or something close) store.  A very small kiosk style store set into a corner of the subway station.  It had orthotics, write supports, knee straps, you name it.  we picked up a roll of off-brand KT tape and a thigh compression sleeve for Ryan's tight muscles.

We were thinking of going to a nearby vineyard to walk around, but decided it was best to limit walking for the afternoon.  We stopped at a supermarket near the hostel and grabbed what we would find to be a rock hard avocado, some bread, yogurt, bananas, and oatmeal.  This would be our dinner.

Since we had technically checked out, and Mari Lu was graciously letting us hang around until our 9:50pm bus, we spent the evening watching british CNN and reading, Ryan almost died of boredom.

Around 8:40 we headed out.  With all of our gear on our backs, we trekked to the subway, which gave us flashbacks to Quito circa 2011 due to how crowded it was.  The subway spit us out at Los Heroes estacion.  We surfaced to a street in another part of the city, 9pm, in the middle of some sort of bicycle rally.  Thousands of bike riders riding down the street, lots of young people milling around.  We were instantly freaked out.  Where the heck were we going?  Mari Lu gave us vague and unsure directions when we asked her before leaving, they included a feeble attempt at google-mapping it for us.

Anyway, there we are.  We round a corner and see a line of people waiting for what would only be a bus.  I ask two staff-looking women in yellow coats.  They pretty much tell us it is a 5 minute walk down a poorly lit street, with hardly any people visible when we look that way.

Ryan and I both agree not to venture down there alone with all of our belongings hanging off of our bodies in some fashion.  We kind of circle the block, I'm looking for a police officer who will take pity and escort us, Ryan is calculating how much money we'd loose to cut our losses and get the day bus.

I notice a guy in is 40s dressed well and I felt like I could trust him for some reason.  I asked, and he pointed us in the right direction, not as far down to the scary part of the street.

On the corner I see another honest-looking gentleman with a small suitcase.  Yes!  We learn that he is on "el mismo bus" (the same bus!) as us.  We are very relieved to a.) be in the right place and b.) be in an area with a light overhead and a friendly local to help us.

Soon the bus arrives.  I semi-reluctantly let them stow my large back under the bus.  We climb to the upper level of  the bus to our premium seats.  Wow!  They convert into an almost totally flat bed.  Shortly the porter comes around and gives us water, some kind of onion-flavored crackers, and basically tucks us in with a blanket. Even closing the drapes all around us. I had to spell our last name for him, and spell Ryan's first name "Ere - i griega - ahh- ene".

Eye mask on, ear plugs in, melatonin and benadryl swallowed, and Ryan and I were out.  I woke up at one point to go to the bathroom.  I left my glasses, and went to the first level.  I tried to open the door, but when it wouldnt, I just figured it was in use.  I stood there in the dimly lit corridor with the street wizzing by before going back and checking if there is an upper level bathroom.  Bingo!

It was at this time I learned you have to PUSH to open these doors.  I had been pulling at the bottom one, and it was probably empty the whole time I stood there.

Anyway, once done I got up, returning the spring-loaded toilet seat to its original position of "up", and went back to bed.  I just want to add that Ryan looks pretty funny with a bandana tied around his eyes.  It looks like he's in for a far worse fate than a long bus ride.

Premium seats!  About as first class as we get.









We woke up for good in time to get our breakfast handed to us, a questionable cheese sandwich.  We
opted instead for two hearty cookies we had purchased at a vegan cafe the afternoon before.




Soon it was time to get off the bus and get a cab to our hostel.  Donde German actually has two locations.  Leave it to Ryan and I to overpay a bus station taxi to drop us at the wrong location!  We were actually farther away than we were when we were at the bus station!

We gathered our stuff and walked to the correct location, almost missing it thanks to directions lost-in-translation.

We were welcomed by a nice woman who speaks no English, but showed us to a clean room and a really cozy overall hostel.

Ok, thats it for now!  Have to go help Ryan with dinner!



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